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| Joined: | 10-21-2005 |
| Location: | Eastanollee, Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 72 |
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I'm almost done installing the passenger side floor pan (and have not yet cut out the drivers side). I supported the car on some 6 ton, 24" high jack stands ($30 a pair at Advenced Autoparts) under the rear axle and the front lower suspension arms so that the car is essentially sitting on its own springs (no door braces). I'm not sure if this is the recommended method but I have been checking the door alignment frequently and nothing seems to have moved.
I will pass on some of the lessons I have learned so far on making and installing your own floor pans.
1. Do not cut the first piece of new metal until you have removed the old pan!!!!!. My nice shiny new floor pans that I made in advance did not fit worth a _____ ! Started again from scratch. Cut yourself a few stips a few inches wide and practice bending them until you get the profile right. The first ones were good practice with the welder though.
2. The damage you can do with an air chisel in about five seconds can take several hours to repair.
3. Leave the rear transmission mount angle bracket (welded to the side of the transmission tunnel) in place. (See above comment about air chisel). The transmission mount will also help to keep the side of the tunnel straight after the floor is removed (Don't foget to support the transmission).
4. Lying on your back welding and grinding with burning underseal dropping down the front of you shirt is not fun. If you can afford it, I would strongly recommend considering taking Greg up on his offer of using the Club's rotisserie brackets.
I have been taking pictures as I go with this project and am also working on a detailed drawing of the floor pans. When I get done I will try to put it all together and maybe submit it to Greg for the Club magazine.
Hope some of this helps,
Andy