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| Joined: | 05-01-2005 |
| Location: | Minneapolis, Minnesota USA |
| Posts: | 575 |
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In the long run, I think you'll like the Gustafson starter (or WOSP, for that matter).
My solution for the positive battery cable is to attach it to the starter motor first (complete with a rubber boot) prior to installing the starter. Yes, the cable gets in the way a little bit, but no big deal. After the starter is installed, connect the far end of the cable.
Whenever I'm replacing any starter (stock or geared), I also
1) Replace the positive cable with the heaviest gauge one that is readily available off the shelf, and...
2) Add a similarly heavy gauge ground cable between one of the starter's mounting bolts and the chassis ground point (ie, where the battery's black ground cable bolts to the chassis.
3) Smear the mounting faces of the block and starter with Anti-Seize (preferrably the 'copper' A-S).
The stock skinny cables are restrictive. It might surprise you how much better the stock starter will perform when more current can get to it.
Over time, the joint between the block and starter corrodes and continuity is compromised. I've 'fixed' many Lucas starters on 907s by simply removing the starter, cleaning both faces (block & starter), applying a light smear of Anti-Seize, and re-installing the starter.
The engine's rubber mounts electrically isolate it from the chassis, so there's a small cable that shunts around one of the mounts. All the starter current must pass through that little shunt in order to get to ground. Adding the big fat ground cable directly to one of the starter's mounting bolts really helps the current flow.
Regards,
Tim Engel
Last edited on 07-18-2020 05:05 pm by Esprit2