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Edit: I’m not starting from scratch, but want to see where the timing is. Because my cams were timed at 115/115, I suspect the static timing is not very advanced either.Tom,
If you're just checking the existing timing rather than setting it from scratch, then the procedure would be similar but different.
Connect the continuity light or multi-meter in the same way. But instead of rotating the distributor, turn the crank in it's normal direction of rotation. As the timing pointer on the pulley approaches TDC, when the breaker points open (ie, when the ignition fires), the continuity light will go from dim or off, to bright or on... or the meter's needle will jump. Stop immediately, and read the timing from the 30-20-10-0 scale on the front of the engine.
If you don't like the current timing, then keep the same set-up, but set the crank to the desired timing, and rotate the distributor... as in the long instructions.
Either way, be aware of how long the system is switched 'On'. If you leave the ignition switch on too long with the points closed (ie, the circuit is grounded and flowing current), then you risk over-heating/ burning-out the points. Work in 5-minute spurts, allowing the points to cool down in between.
Understand how the system works... what's doing what. Then use it to your advantage.
Regards,
Tim Engel
Last edited on 07-06-2019 06:25 am by Esprit2