TanDJensen
| Joined: | 07-10-2017 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
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I've recently restored my 74 JH which included rebuilding the 907 with a stroker crank. What an upgrade! It ran great until it didn't. Turns out I had 2 problems: after a process of elimination I discovered the existing (from a previous owner) Pertronix II magnet ring was defective as evidenced by an ignition misfire once the engine warmed, and, on the limping drive back to the shop I lost all oil pressure because- I discovered through much research- I failed to put in solid crank bearings which are required with a cross-drilled 2.2 liter crank, resulting in a loss of all oil pressure from a burnt bearing. That was a hard-earned lesson. Having resolved both those issues with a lot of labor, new bearings and a new magnetic ring, the engine won't start. Because the car didn't run much before the meltdown (1 tank of gas) I'm still working through the troubleshooting process of getting all the accessories sorted. While troubleshooting the "no fire" issue, I discovered that the bottom fuse in the stock fuse block was blown and, surprise, instantly blows any time I try to put one in. The #3 fuse is hot all the time to run clock, horn, headlights and interior lights (I'm thinking that short is the seat belt leads that I plugged into one another to complete the circuit since the new seat belts don't have the sensors- dumb idea.) From trying to understand Kimbrough's Spark-Fire and Spark-Run diagrams I don't think I need fuse #3 to make the engine run but I'm wondering if someone could shed some light on whether that's true or not and why I'm getting nothing. I've set the leading edge of the rotor to just where it would meet the #1 terminal in the distributor and then rotated the distributor body various degrees both directions while attempting to start it and not one cylinder fires. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I've already eliminated the spark plug wires, coil and plugs as possible culprits.
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