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| Joined: | 07-12-2013 |
| Location: | San Francisco, California USA |
| Posts: | 124 |
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Don't be too hard on yourself; there are a lot of little quirks on this car that need to be learned as you go - even the factory workshop manual isn't particularly clear on too many items.
The tensioner is a rather tight fit on the shaft; it's a slide fit more than a press fit. To get the bearing off, I first removed the threaded stud using two nuts (one as a lock nut). I then used a simple two-arm (or two jaw) gear puller to coax the bearing off its shaft. Because the hole for the threaded stud is off-center in the middle of this bearing shaft, it may not provide a solid, flat surface for the center point of the puller to operate. As I recall, I placed a flat fender washer (one that fit just inside the bearing) against the shaft and with the puller, the bearing came off with little fuss. Reinstalling is relatively easy. Square it up and press it on by finger as far as you can go. I then used a 24mm socket and a rubber mallet to tap it into place (24mm fits against the inner bearing race. I pretty sure it's okay to tap on it here; others may wish to chime in on this bit on wisdom!) You can also reinstall the threaded stud at some point, and using the old nut and eccentric, tighten it down until the bearing is back in place. It doesn't hurt to used a little anti-sieze on the shaft and inner bearing race surface, and definitely use a new nylock nut on the final install.
Best of luck and let us know how it goes,
Clinton
Last edited on 03-26-2016 09:25 pm by Screenplay