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| Joined: | 03-12-2005 |
| Location: | Kingman, Arizona USA |
| Posts: | 532 |
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If the two terminals on the ground end of your light are in fact always connected together within the light, do not use the Black wire. You will then have only two courtesy light functions regardless of the number of positions the light's switch may have: (1) Light never lit, and (2) Light lit when either door is open. Alternately, if you connect the Black wire and ignore the Purple-Black wire, your options become: (1) Light lit, (2) Light not lit.
The Purple-Black wire from the courtesy light goes to a bullet junction. Coming from this junction are two Purple-Black wires that go to the two door switches.
The passenger's door switch has electrical continuity to chassis ground when the door is open. I've seen two different switch types used here: in one, its ground is provided by a second contact on the end of the switch, to which a Black wire is connected; in the other, ground is provided through a contact under the head of the switch body, and thence through the mounting bracket. For this second type, paint in the wrong location(s) will prevent its electrical operation.
The driver's door unit contains two separate switches. One operates identically to the switch in the passenger's door and always derives its electrical ground through a contact under the head of the switch body. The other contact for this switch is on the rear and takes the remaining Purple-Black wire.
The second switch element of the driver's door unit has electrical continuity between its two terminals when the door is open. The two Purple-Pink wires connect to these terminals in either order. One of these wires comes from Pin 10 of the Infamous Seat Belt Warning Module and is connected to the buzzer inside the module (the buzzer gets its power via a different pin of the module's round connector). The other wire goes through Pin 1 of the ignition switch connector to the screw-in terminal on the the side of the ignition switch lock body. Here, the buzzer sounds if (a) the driver's door is open and (b) a conductive object inserted into the ignition lock touches both the (grounded) body of the lock and the contact of the screw-in terminal. The purpose of this is to alert a driver, who is in the process of exiting the car, that the key is still in the ignition switch.
It does make a difference where the wires on the driver's door unit are connected. The easiest way to determine which contacts are which, is to use the resistance measuring function of your voltmeter to identify the two contacts that are connected together when the switch button is not pressed. There should never be any continuity between these two terminals and (a) the third terminal, or (b) the contact ring under the head of the switch.
These switches will eventually wear out and will need repair or replacement. When testing a switch, wiggle the button in all directions while pressing and releasing it. Any undesired electrical connection or loss of connection, or a slow or sticky button, indicates a failed switch. A switch that sticks in the 'on' position can result in a discharged battery, or conceivably in a wiring harness meltdown.
You can use a passenger's door switch on the driver's side, but in this case the two Purple-Pink wires should be taped off, and you will lose the door-open-key-in-ignition warning..
Hope this clarifies things.